Arashiyama Bamboo Forest and Mount Atago
On my first day back in Kyoto, I wanted to re-visit the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest, and then hike up a nearby mountain. I had spent the previous night in Tokyo but I wanted to spend this day exploring Kyoto, so I woke up early to catch the 8:00 am Shinkansen from Tokyo to Kyoto. Upon arriving in Kyoto I stored my bag in a locker and took the local train to Saga-Arashiyama.
At Arashiyama I explored the bamboo forest and the Arashiyama Park, walking to an observation deck overlooking the Katsura river. I returned to the bamboo forest and found a quiet section to take some more photos after being briefly rained on by the weather. I ate lunch at a nearby restaurant that offered a vegan ramen dish, a rarity in Japan (the vegan part). Then I walked to the Mount Atago trail head in Kiyotaki. It was about three kilometers away from the bamboo forest and, on the way there, I walked along the Saga Toriimoto Preserved Street, a cute little neighborhood of Kyoto that was very picturesque. Finally in the late afternoon I hiked all the way up Mount Atago, racing the sun to return before sunset and the final bus back to the city.
Arashiyama Bamboo Forest and Park
The last time I came here, about two weeks ago, I had less than an hour to explore the forest, and only the dim illumination of twilight to see by. So, on my return to Kyoto I went first thing to Arashiyama to see the bamboo forest in the bright light of the noon day sun.
My goal had been to capture a photo where the forest would seem to glow with a vibrant green, the sunlight filtering through the bamboo (essentially the Windows 10 background set in this very spot). However, the conditions weren't quite right, the sky was partly cloudy and it even rained during my visit. But I still enjoyed my time here and I was able to explore beyond the forest to the surrounding park and nature reserves. Even despite the rain, I think I still captured some nice photos.
The trail through the forest. In this section the bamboo on the left was sparse enough that I could see further into the distance.
A couple more photos of the bamboo. I loved looking up to see the leafy canopy with the sunlight filtering through.
I explored the park adjacent to the bamboo forest.
The park is adjacent to the Katsura River. I walked briefly along its banks where I saw a couple of boats.
I hiked up a hill to the Arashiyama Park Observation Deck where I had a good view of the river.
I walked through a nature reserve area before going back down the hill and back towards the bamboo.
I found another grove of the bamboo forest (the Sagano Bamboo Grove) that was less crowded. I took these photos just after a light shower of rain fell.
Thankfully the rain was brief and soon the sun was shining through the bamboo once more.
Saga Toriimoto Preserved Street
From the bamboo forest I decided to walk to the Mount Atago trail head, mostly because to get there involved going past a preserved 19th century district of Kyoto (additionally the wait for the bus was half an hour and I figured I could walk 3 km in that time). I walked past a Buddhist temple first, and then I found myself on a narrow street that was beautifully picturesque. The buildings were well maintained, they looked new though most were in an older, more traditional, style. There was plenty of vegetation around as well, giving the street a cozy atmosphere, especially enhanced by the cute compact cars that filled the drive ways.
On my way to the preserved street I saw a giant temple gate.
Some of the photos I took at the Saga Toriimoto Preserved Street. Most of the pictures I took are looking up along the street in the direction I was walking but I think the third one I took looking back towards the way I had come.
Mount Atago
I had learned about Mount Atago when I was researching for good hikes in and around Kyoto. The trail-head for the hike was close to the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest so I planned to visit both in the same day. Unfortunatley, I took longer at the bamboo forest than I initially anticipated, and I stopped for lunch at that ramen restaurant, so the afternoon was well under way by the time I arrived at the trail-head. The hike was four kilometers one way and while ordinarily this would be easily achievable in an afternoon, I didn't realise it also climbed 800 meters in elevation. A sign at the start recommended five hours to complete the hike, and I only had three before sunset.
I despaired for a moment, thinking I would need to turn back and never attempt this hike, I did not have any other spare time left during my remaining stay in Kyoto. I scanned the the trail map on my phone and I identified a rest area with a lookout halfway up the mountain. As a compromise I aimed for this halfway point with an agreement to myself that I would re-asses my pace at this point and decide there to continue or return. I made good time but still not quite fast enough, but at the halfway mark I really wanted to continue, so I packed my camera away, and focused on climbing as quickly as I could.
I reached the summit climbing the entire mountain in about one and a half hours. There was a temple shrine situated at the top, consisting of multiple wooden buildings it was surrounded by dense conifer forests. There was nobody else present, not even any kind of a management person but the door was open so I hesitantly entered and quickly explored the temple. I only spent a few minutes in the shrine as I was limited on time, I still had to race the sun back to the trail-head and the bus stop.
Going down I spent a little bit more time taking pictures but I actually ended up running most of it. Downhill was certainly easier on my cardiovascular system, but I did have to be very careful on where I placed my feet. Most of the trail had steps that were little more than slightly arranged rocks and I needed to focus on ensuring I didn't twist my ankle. I completed the return trip in under one hour, winning against the sun and doing the entire Mount Atago hike in about two and a half hours, twice as fast as the recommended time.
Photos from the first half of the trail. The path went consistently up the mountain with many steps through some beautifully lush green forests.
Near the halfway point there were a couple of spots with breaks in the trees allowing me to see the scenery beyond.
I took no pictures from this point to the top of the mountain, the following pictures were actually taken on the way down when I had a bit more time, but I have reversed them to show the story of the ascent up.
The final ascent was perhaps the steepest part, along a set of stone steps and past another couple of gates.
Here is the final approach to the shrine at the mountain peak.
The building was completely empty, probably because I was the only person crazy enough to try climbing the mountain so late in the day. I only spent a few minutes here, quickly walking around the shrine, as I knew I had to rush back down the mountain to finish the hike before sunset.
The stone staircase that was my final ascent, I now descended. I had more time now to take photos and to absorb the beautiful scenery. I loved the stone posts that were covered in moss and snow, flanking either side of the staircase.
A few pictures I took while descending after I passed the halfway point again. I loved the vibrant green of the moss growing on rocks and wooden logs alike.
I crossed a bridge to get to the bus stop and I had a nice view of the river as I did.
Part of my rush to return down the mountain was that I didn't know when the last bus would be leaving the Kioytaki bus stop. So I assumed the worst and kept my pace up. I arrived at the bus stop around 4:50 pm and found out the next bus wouldn't leave until 5:30 pm. So, since I had some time, I walked back down to the Kiyotaki village and photographed the cute red bridge over the river.
The Kiyotaki village, situated between the trail-head and the bus stop.
I could walk down to the river bank and beneath the bridge where I had some nice views of the village sitting next to the river.
I caught the 5:30 pm bus back to the train station. I actually missed the bus stop I was supposed to get off at so I had a bit of a walk, but because of that I discovered the Kimono Forest, a brilliant art display that looked particularly beautiful at night.
Near the Arashiyama station is the Kimono Forest. I imagine it was inspired by the bamboo forest, they used light tubes wrapped with many different Kimono patterns.
Despite feeling so rushed hiking up and down Mount Atago, I was so glad that I persisted and that I actually made it to the summit. This was the only day I could really have attempted this hike, and if I had turned back there wasn't really much else I could have done in Kyoto that day anyway. Also, this was not my first time doing a hike in a foreign country with little time remaining in the day, and on previous occasions I had taken the safe route, turning back early. So this time I was glad I could complete the hike, even when the safer choice might have been to turn back. I felt so exhilarated reaching the summit, knowing that I had achieved this goal. To do so I had to push past my limits, achieving something that, at multiple points on the journey, I though I would not be able to achieve. I loved being out in nature again, I loved the physical challenge of climbing a mountain against the clock, and I loved taking more photos of the beautiful Japanese scenery.
Thanks for reading – Edward
Written 26th of May 2025