Japan

Yamadera

Edward Kopka

15 Dec 2025 • 7 min read

Yamadera is a beautiful mountain town located in the north-east of Japan, situated on the train line between Sendai and Yamagata. It is known for the famous Buddhist temple of Risshaku-ji; an old temple founded over a thousand years ago, it is now protected both as a historical site and as a beautiful nature spot. The temple grounds are located on the steep mountain slope, to get to the highest buildings involves climbing a thousand steps up the mountain. The multitude of temple buildings are located within a natural alcove of the mountains that protects it from the wind, providing an area of serene peace and tranquility. The poet who invented the Haiku wrote a famous poem here about the quiet peace of Yamadera, captured in the sound of cicadas.

I first learnt about Yamadera from a YouTube series and, since it was on the way back south towards Tokyo, I decided to stop by and have a look. I traveled from Sendai in the morning to Yamadera by a local train and spent the day here before continuing to Yamagata where I spent the night. The mountain town was covered in snow, and it was very quiet, with only a few other visitors during the winter season. I certainly felt like I could feel the stillness and peace that Yamadera is famous for. I first visited a natural rock formation in the woods and then went to the Risshaku-ji temple where I climbed the one thousand steps. At the top of the temple grounds I had a beautiful view of the snow covered valley with Yamadera situated in the middle. I returned to the town and ate soba noodles for the first time before leaving by train.

The snow covered mountain town of Yamadera.

To get to the rock formation involved crossing the railway tracks, on the way back to town I had to wait for a train to pass.

The trail to the rock formation was covered in snow. I didn't have any spikes for my shoes so walked carefully to avoid slipping and falling.

The rock formation. This was the scene I first saw online and drew me to come visit Yamadera.

I explored around the rocks and took photos from different angles. The two features that stood out to me where the honeycomb like holes and the ruins of an old temple.

My last look at the rocky formation before returning to the main town. In the winter time there was only one way to get to and from this place so I returned by the same path.

One of the largest temple buildings located at the base of the mountain, right next to the town centre (labeled Konponchudō Rissyakuji on the maps). It was one the first buildings I passed when entering the temple grounds.

The bell tower situated near the start of the steps going up the mountain.

The one thousand steps of Risshaku-ji temple. Many steps were covered in snow and ice so I had to carefully step on each, trying to not to fall.

I passed through a large gate beyond which were many of the buildings and gardens of the temple.

The central area of the temple with many buildings and some diverging paths. From here I could climb to the highest sanctuary or go to a lookout platform.

I walked towards the lookout and, along this path, I had a wonderful view of the temple. From here you can see how the temple occupies a naturally sheltered alcove of the mountains.

The lookout platform is situated past this building at the end of this path.

A panorama of the view from the lookout platform showing the town of Yamadera nestled at the bottom of the valley.

A train went by as I was taking photos of the view.

The best photo I could take to capture both the gray sky above and the black forest of the mountain slope below me.

I hiked up to the highest temple building I could access, located deep within the mountain alcove.

From the highest sanctuary I could see the snow covered temple grounds below me, and the mountains in the distance. This was the quietest part of the temple with the only sound being the occasional crunch of someone else walking through the snow.

Heading back down the mountain, I often looked out over temple rooftops, with layers of mountains fading into the distance.

There was a lot of snow at the temple (if it wasn't obvious) and here I loved seeing the stacked layers of snow on top of the stone wall next to these steps.

This is the best image I could capture (looking up from downhill) of the large gate into the main temple area. It best shows the steepness of the mountain slope. There were so many steps I had to take to get up there, and then again when coming back down.

A beautiful garden located at the foot of the mountain slope.

One of the gateways that leads the way to the Risshaku-ji Temple.

Some pictures of the main street in Yamadera located on the north side of the river, the side closest to the temple.

I walked westward from Yamadera to a small bridge with a nice view of the river, upstream there was a mini waterfall made by a small weir.

I returned to the main bridge, where the river is wider. I crossed back to the south side, where the train train station is situated, stopping to take some pictures of the nice views of the river on both sides of the bridge.

Both these images show the mountain where the Risshaku-ji Temple is located. The first is taken from the main bridge, the second from just outside the train station.

I really enjoyed my one day here in Yamadera. I loved exploring this quiet mountain town in the dead of winter. It was certainly a different experience from the large bustling cities of Japan and a welcome change of pace. The nature and quietness of this place is lovely and I am thankful that the weather, while a bit gray at times, held out for the most part. If you ever are visiting Japan and need to go someplace quiet and out in nature I can definitely recommend Yamadera.

Thanks for reading – Edward

Written 25th of May 2025

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